Against the vast span
of geologic time out of which its scenic grandeur was born, Yellowstone's first
century as a national park came and went in a moment. Today, just as in 1872,
Yellowstone's capacity to whet man's sense of wonder and refresh his spirit remains
ageless and undiminished.
Equally compelling for
us today, one hundred years and more after they first unfolded, are the human
lessons in the story of the discovery and exploration of Yellowstone Park and
its establishment as a preserve for coming generations of Americans to enjoy
unspoiled…
Parklands and
wilderness become more precious to us with each passing year, and the forces
that militate against them intensify. This account thus commends itself not
only to the general reader as an absorbing narrative of men, the land, and the
laws, and to the historian as a long-needed documentary resource, but also to
every citizen who wishes to help apply more widely in our own time the kind of
environmental wisdom and foresight that created our first national park a
century ago.
- Richard Nixon, President of the United States
We found Chris along the banks of one of the high running
creeks that we hadn’t had the time to explore. An open beer can kept him company
on the Dodge’s tailgate, as his four weight rod was getting dressed.
“I just have to see,” he said smiling, something we understood
perfectly.
There was no poetry in his meaning, no bullshit about the
majesty of place or time, just the reality that there was water to be fished,
and the possibility of a few fish to be seen. I respect that. I’d tie on a
hopper.
We talked briefly before saying our goodbyes, leaving Chris
alone for the first time in a few days. I imagined that he was happy to be rid
of the four derelict bloggers that had descended upon him three days earlier,
and I’m sure he was ready for the time alone on his curious stretch of water. It
just looked fishy. And now remembering back on it, I’m not so sure that this
wasn’t his plan all along. Maybe he wanted this creek to himself. I wouldn’t
blame him if he did.
No. That’s not his style, he would have shared.
Our bodies rattled as we continued to follow the loose
gravel on our way out of the Centennial Valley in route to West Yellowstone.
Mike and I had budgeted the better part of the day to fish in the park, a place
that neither one of us had fished before, but had driven through on our way north
from Denver. A brief passing that greeted us with an early morning blanket of
soft fog that seemed to wrap our perception of Yellowstone in time in space. Maybe
it was just confirmation of what we had hoped to find, or maybe it was just how
this place has always been.

We bought our park licenses and promised to fill out the “report”
card that helps the park biologists study the trout populations of Yellowstone.
Information that includes the type of trout caught, size of the fish, and
numbers caught. Not to mention the comment section, with just enough space to
say thanks for the experience and thanks to the biologists for conducting such good work.
Mine is still sitting in my desk, I better send it in.
Breaking from the trail, we crossed the road and followed
Nez Perce farther into the park. Mike worked the stream above me, taking his
time working some deeper runs that seemed to hold fish, but didn’t yield
anything for the scorecard. I worked below him, finding similar results for a lazy
effort, spending more time taking in the surroundings than judiciously paying
attention to line and flies. Something I am guilty of more often than I care to
admit. And in this case, I was somewhere I’d never been, someplace far from the
real world, so I cut myself some slack.

I sat down, rummaging through a fly box that looked full of
everything one might need to fool a resting trout, but nothing seemed to speak
to me. My box had been tied in a different place, for different fish, and for
different water. The Copper John’s and Pheasant Tail’s only seemed to upset me. I know that it doesn’t matter to the fish, but somehow, it all started to
matter to me. Besides, it wasn’t like that out here, it couldn’t be. This was a
famous park, with famous water, with famous trout. The spectacle of catching a
fish from these waters with something known felt cheap, it felt too easy. This
was Yellowstone for Christ’s sake, and I only had a few more hours to satisfy years
of build up to the moment. I swatted at a fly buzzing in my ear. Fucking
pheasant tail. My hands worked to tie on the familiar bug.
It happens in places like this, you over think things. You
want to believe that in places like Yellowstone that normal doesn’t count, and
that only your best is good enough to match theirs. I have felt this on a
number of occasions; like the first time I packed a fly rod for an afternoon on
the Poudre, similarly the first time I stepped foot in Rocky Mountain National
Park in search of some Greenbacks, and even the first time I asked Bridget out
on a date. Was I good enough? Did I deserve to be here? But as sure as time has
a balanced sense of humor, sometimes I am, sometimes not.
There wasn’t much debate on the ground from which I stood.
Yellowstone was protected, it was sacred, founded on the principle that a
place like this is more important to the whole than just a certain few.
Yellowstone was created in this spirit as the first National Park, ushering in a
new ideal of shared ownership to a country still breaking west in exploration. Yellowstone
was spared the indignity of becoming something it was not. We saved it from
ourselves, we left it alone.

Well, we left it alone for the most part anyway. Roads were
constructed, nice viewing areas of “Old Faithful” were put in place, trails
were formed, and even some lodges were built so that people could come to the
park and have a bed to rest their heads after a long day of exploring something
foreign to them. And in this vein, we tried to make better. We tried to improve
upon a place that needed nothing more than an entrance and an exit. But
Yellowstone is an extension of who we are, and that is just what we do. And like
it or not, we have left our mark. Permanently.
The Yellowstone Cutthroat Trout is the beneficiary of one of
our “improvements”. The introduction of the non-native Lake Trout found in the
waters of Yellowstone Lake highlights one such bad idea. As now, the Yellowstone
Cutthroat Trout is fighting to remain part the landscape we fought so hard to
protect. In 1994, the first Lake Trout was discovered in Yellowstone Lake, a
predatory fish that has decimated the Yellowstone Cutthroat to about 10% of its
native range. Aggressive gill netting
has been conducted since 1995, in hopes of ridding the park waters of the
non-native species, trying desperately to rejuvenate the last stronghold for a
trout that supports more than just good photo ops. One million dollars is spent
annually on the eradication of the Lake Trout from Yellowstone Lake, an unfortunate number
considering we did this to ourselves. But in the grand scheme of things, it’s a
small price to pay in the name of making right. And it’s a small price to say, “we’re
sorry, and we'll keep fighting".
As a fisherman, there is the illusion of perfection placed
upon us by what we don’t see. There are the fish that we know that are there
despite the best science and body of proof to confront our reality. We hold
onto the belief that on our best day, things will be good, and on our worst
day, things will just seem to work out. After
all, that’s what the beer is for. There used to be a trout that swam in the
waters near the headwaters of the Arkansas River, up in the Twin Lakes area of
Colorado. This trout was said to grow to sizes unimaginable to the cutthroat that
we know and catch today. The Yellowfin became victim of the exotic introduction
of salmon, foreign trout, and the like. The fish simply couldn’t compete to
stay alive. We burdened a fishery we fully didn’t understand, in hopes of
making better. We made a mistake that hindsight makes blindingly clear. And in that
relative blink of an eye, a native fish vanished. I would have liked to have
seen one of the twenty pound fish that had been written about, I would have
liked to have shown my kids. And in a perfect world, in a just world, maybe
there is still one up there to be caught. It’s worth exploring, it's worth the daydream.

My trucker hat dripped with sweat.The temperature had reached the mid-nineties by late morning, and remained unrelenting for the better part of the day. The backdrop of the cloudless sky did away with any notion that it was going to be anything but hot. And only having a day in the park, we kept fishing, despite the fact that some shade and an afternoon nap might be more reasonable. After all, not in one vision of Yellowstone, do I recall seeing a cloud. So I guess it was perfect.
We crossed back over the road, careful to look both ways as the blacktop was choked with traffic. The smell of sulphur permeated the summer air, as the Firehole came into view. Walking upstream, we tried to spot fish from the bank, searching for a good place to make our first few casts. The absence of bugs and rise forms made the job a little more difficult. We accepted, and fished blind for the better part of a couple of hours. And if not for the one missed rainbow, I would have been led to believe that even in Yellowstone, it's possible to find a skunk.
The sun had already begun to sink in the western sky, as the first caddis skitted across the water. That caddis was soon followed by
another, then another, and pretty soon the air hummed with life as the Firehole gave way to
the first aggressive rings on the water’s surface. Mike reached for his box,
grabbing a fly I couldn’t make out from twenty yards upstream. It didn’t
matter. I knew. Reaching into my box, I pulled out the same.
The sound of water was broken by a faint laugh, I turned to
see Mike lift his rod and set the hook.
Yellowstone.

*Yellowstone. It’s a tough place to write about. Looking back on my
experience, the only thing that I’m certain of is that I want to go back.
Trying to write this, most everything fell flat, and I feel that this is a poor
representation of the place. Maybe that’s why I chose not to write about the majesty
of certain locations. Yellowstone isn’t a place to write about, it’s a place to
experience, a place to feel, and a place to keep memories and secrets for
yourself (myself). This would have been my entry for the Trout Unlimited,
Simms, the Yellowstone Park Foundation, and the Outdoor Blogger Network Blogger
Tour 2012 contest. Fortunately, I had the opportunity to be part of last year’s
crew that got to experience the Centennial Valley, a trip that I will always
remember and be thankful for. It is only fitting that fine print excludes
myself and last year’s winners from attending, giving some new bloggers
the opportunity to experience Yellowstone, the work that is being done in the park, and to spend time with people that are passionate to make each experience on the water better than your last...
Thank you Trout Unlimited. For all you do.
If you haven’t done so already, get your blog post in for a
chance to win. If nothing else, the donation of your words will be greatly appreciated
for a great cause and great place. You won’t regret it.